Licorice: the Root Extract that Evens Skin Tone
Behind the licorice wood chewed in childhood lies Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant whose root yields one of the most studied botanical extracts in the radiance category. At NOPAL LIFE, this extract works to unify skin tone while prickly pear oil nourishes the skin.
This fact sheet focuses exclusively on licorice for topical application. It does not cover licorice-based food products (confectionery, chewing sticks, herbal teas, beverages, food supplements) or any oral use.
Key takeaways
- For licorice, it's neither the leaf nor the stem that interests cosmetics, but the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, harvested after 3 to 4 years of cultivation — hence the high cost of the raw material.
- On a label, the extract reads Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (licorice root extract in English). Its position in the list tells you whether it's present in useful quantities or as a marketing gimmick: our reading method is explained below.
- Licorice's signature molecule, glabridin, is one of the most documented botanical subjects in the "radiance" category since the work of Yokota et al. (Pigment Cell Research, 1998).
- Desired skin properties: appearance of dark spots, evenness of skin tone, and skin comfort — never bleaching.
- A realistic observation window: 8 to 12 weeks, with SPF 30 every morning. Without sun protection, no radiance product lasts long.
Licorice in pictures
Root, wood, and powder: four shots created for NOPAL LIFE.
The extract's identity card
From plant to extract: what few fact sheets tell you
Licorice, or Glycyrrhiza glabra by its botanical name, is a perennial legume native to the Mediterranean basin and the Near East. The plant has long been acclimatized in France, where it was cultivated for its wood, and where it can still be found in botanical gardens. Its name comes from the Greek glykys rhiza, "sweet root" — the root's sweet taste made it famous long before cosmetics.
In France, cultivation was long concentrated in the South, particularly in the Gard around Uzès, where the licorice wood industry flourished in the 19th century before declining. What remains are plants escaped from old plots, a collection garden here or there, and a taste that no synthetic fragrance has ever properly imitated. Cosmetics, for their part, became interested in the root much later.
The plants are established in spring, but the useful part remains invisible: it is the roots and underground stolons that accumulate, year after year, the sought-after compounds. Hence the golden rule of this cultivation — do not pull up before the 3rd or 4th year. Pulled up too early, the root is poor; with patience, it is rich. Few skincare plants require such a wait: lavender is harvested from the second year, green tea produces every season.
The roots are then washed, dried, and then reduced to powder or subjected to extraction; it is these roots, and only these, that possess the properties useful in cosmetics. It is this step that concentrates glabridin, the signature molecule of the plant's lipophilic fraction. Depending on the solvent and the part used — whole root, root bark, fine powder — a licorice extract does not have the same color, smell, or properties in a formula. A cosmetic extract worthy of the name is standardized for its glabridin content: this is what separates a true active ingredient from a simple scented water.
This slow agricultural process explains the price of the raw material, and why organic standardized extracts, derived from certified roots, are reserved for premium products. It also explains why licorice rarely appears at the top of an INCI list: it's used sparingly, but precisely. When you know the source of the material and how long it spent in the ground, a small line in an ingredient list ceases to be a mere detail.
What we look for when applying it to the skin
Four cosmetic benefits, and no more: licorice is an appearance-focused active, not a promise of spectacular effects.
The appearance of spots
Glabridin is studied for its benefits on darker areas; in cosmetics, it is said to help reduce their appearance, without aggression.
A more even complexion
The root extract helps harmonize contrasts between light and marked areas, for a more uniform finish.
Comfort as a bonus
Rare among radiance-boosting actives: its reputation for gentleness makes it a popular choice after sun exposure or for tight-feeling skin.
Compatible with reactive skin
The botanical option when more potent radiance actives are not well tolerated. Always perform a patch test on the inner elbow 48 hours prior.
Where to place it among other radiance actives
Recommended starting cadence by NOPAL LIFE, active by active, for skin that is new to them. The two botanical extracts in the table immediately settle into their cruising speed; more potent actives, however, should be started at minimal dosage and only increased if everything goes well.
| Active | Common INCI Name | When | Starting Cadence | Application Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Licorice | Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract | Morning and evening | 2 applications / day from Day 1 | Targeted: spots, cheekbones, forehead |
| Vitamin C | Ascorbyl Glucoside · Ascorbic Acid | Morning | 1 application / day | Entire face, excluding eye contour |
| Niacinamide | Niacinamide | Morning or evening | 1 to 2 applications / day | Entire face |
| Green Tea | Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract | Morning | 1 application / day | Entire face |
| Fruit Acids (AHA) | Lactic Acid · Glycolic Acid | Evening | 2 evenings / week | Entire face, never on broken skin |
| Prickly Pear Oil | Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil | Evening | 3 to 4 drops, 1 time / day | Face, neck, eye contour |
Two simple rules: introduce only one new active at a time, and wait 8 to 12 weeks before judging. The two plants in the table—licorice and green tea—do not have the same properties and are not interchangeable; acids, however, must be earned.
Our method for reading a label in ten seconds
European Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires ingredients to be listed in descending order of weight — up to 1%. Below this threshold, the brand can list ingredients in any order it chooses. Hence the trick: just identify an ingredient whose maximum content is regulated to turn the list into a graduated rule.
Phenoxyethanol, a very common preservative, is capped at 1.0% by Annex V of the same regulation. Anything listed after it therefore weighs less than 1%.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract placed just before the preservative: serious dosage. Placed in second-to-last position, between fragrance and a colorant: the mention is primarily a marketing claim.
An honest nuance: a standardized and rich extract can work very well at low doses, and the INCI order says nothing about the quality of the raw material. This benchmark eliminates the most obvious impostures, nothing more.
Three misconceptions to clarify
"It lightens the whole skin"
No, and that's not the goal. A cosmetic product works on appearance: here, reducing the contrast between a marked area and the rest of the face. No NOPAL LIFE product is formulated to change the natural color of skin, and we will never claim such effects.
"More is better"
False, and costly. An extract rich in glabridin is used at a low dose; two products displaying the same plant may be nothing alike depending on the source, solvent, and content. Quantity does not replace either the quality of the root or the regularity of application.
"It's the licorice used in confectionery"
Same plant, different world. Food products (confectionery, chewing sticks, herbal teas, beverages, food supplements) fall under a distinct regulatory framework and uses for which we offer no advice. This page only discusses the root applied to the skin.
Choosing a licorice product: five questions, a bonus, a reflex
The five questions we ourselves ask a supplier before selecting a raw material — followed by a useful import detail for the shelf, and the reflex that summarizes them all.
1. Which part of the plant?
Only the root and rhizome are of interest to us. An extract from licorice leaves or stems does not have the same properties: the mention "Root" in the INCI name is not decorative.
2. What source, what terroir?
Mediterranean basin, Near East, Central Asia: plants do not yield the same material depending on the soil and climate. A serious supplier names their source; others write "natural origin" and change the subject.
3. Extract, powder, or water?
A standardized extract and a finely ground powder are not dosed in the same way, and simple licorice water provides almost nothing. Three products, three realities behind the same word on the packaging.
4. Organic certification, yes or no?
An organic root guarantees a cultivation method, not a glabridin content. Both pieces of information are useful, they are not interchangeable: ask for organic certification and standardization.
5. What does its place in the list say?
Refer back to the phenoxyethanol method described above. Thirty seconds on the label are worth more than three pages of arguments about the plant's benefits.
Bonus: the import detail
On English packaging, the same material is written as licorice root extract — sometimes liquorice. Roots rarely come from France: they travel dried from Central Asia or the Near East. Few skincare plants grow around the corner, but it's good to know what you're buying.
The reflex that summarizes everything
A product that names the part of the plant, the source, and the content has nothing to hide. A product that only writes "with licorice," or "licorice" on English packaging, leaves you guessing. In cosmetics, what is not specified is rarely flattering.
Our approach: to unify without harshness
Spots often appear on already fragile skin: being too harsh risks setting you back further. Our answer is simple: gentleness, every day. Licorice morning and evening on targeted areas, Vitamin C in the morning, then prickly pear oil in the evening to nourish and let the skin work overnight. It's this trio, consistently used over time, that builds lasting radiance.
Two plants, one oil: nothing extravagant. Our radiance products are designed to be used for an entire season, not to impress in the first week. The benefits of a root extract are measured in months, just as its cultivation is measured in years.
Discover our radiance skincareThe daily routine, in four steps
Allow 90 seconds in the morning, 2 minutes in the evening.
Gentle cleansing
Soap-free foam or gel, 30 seconds, lukewarm water.
Targeted serum
2 drops on marked areas, patted for 20 seconds, morning and evening.
Hydration
Cream adapted to your skin type, on still damp skin.
Protection (morning)
SPF 30 minimum, 2 fingers of product for face and neck.
Twelve weeks, four photos, an honest verdict
The eye gets used to its own reflection: this is the #1 reason why we give up on a brightening treatment too early. Date, photograph, compare.
- Day 0 — reference photo: natural light, near a window, without makeup, full face then three-quarters. Note the time.
- Day 1 to Day 84 — 2 drops morning and evening on targeted areas, SPF 30 every morning, without exception, even in winter.
- Day 28, Day 56, Day 84 — three new photos: same window, same framing, same time ± 1 hour.
- Verdict on Day 84 — you compare Day 0 and Day 84 side by side, never Day 83 and Day 84. This is the only comparison that matters.
A field note: photos taken in the evening under artificial light are not comparable. Only one light source, always the same.
Realistic expectations, and cohabitation with acids
Talking about effects in cosmetics requires precision. The effects that can reasonably be observed relate to appearance: a complexion that seems more even, marked areas that are less contrasted with the rest of the face, comfortable skin. The effects that should not be expected, and that no honest brand will promise you: the disappearance of a long-standing spot, a change in skin tone, or anything visible in a week. Between the two, there is regularity – and that’s where everything happens.
In terms of cohabitation, liquorice is accommodating. It works well with hyaluronic acid, which affects hydration and not pigmentation, and with fruit acids — lactic acid, glycolic acid — provided you don't stack everything on the same evening. Our rule: acids two evenings a week, never on irritated skin. The only exception to the twice-daily application rate: on these two evenings, keep the liquorice for the morning. And do not mix the acid and the extract in the same step: the effects of an exfoliant are seen quickly, those of an active ingredient for appearance require time, and confusing the two mainly leads to doing too much.
Finally, a word on what you read elsewhere: the benefits attributed to liquorice are sometimes borrowed from other uses of the plant, which have nothing to do with facial care. On this page, we stick to the cosmetic properties of the root extract, and nothing else.
Last point, often forgotten: a plant extract ages. Once the bottle is opened, respect the period of use after opening indicated on the packaging (the small open jar pictogram), and store the product away from light. A whole year on a bathroom shelf, in direct sunlight, does no good to either the plant or your skin.
NOPAL LIFE synergistic skincare
Two products from the range whose properties complement those of liquorice for an even complexion: the Vitamin C serum in the morning, the lactic acid tonic two evenings a week – the frequency indicated in the table above.
Working Duos
With Vitamin C
The go-to duo for spots: antioxidant in the morning, root extract morning and evening.
Discover Vitamin CWith Niacinamide
More even complexion on one side, suppleness and comfort on the other: a very well-tolerated combination.
Discover NiacinamideWith Green Tea
Two plants, two functions: one for uniformity, the other for the morning antioxidant shield.
Discover Green TeaNOPAL LIFE Skin Intelligence™
Free skin diagnosis · 11 questions · your personalized routine in 3 minutes.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is glabridin?
It is the signature molecule of the root, isolated in its lipophilic fraction. It has been the subject of seminal laboratory work since Yokota et al. (Pigment Cell Research, 1998), making it one of the most documented botanical subjects in the "radiance" category. A good cosmetic extract is standardized for its content.
How long does it take to see results?
Pigmentation evolves slowly: allow 8 to 12 weeks of regular use, with daily SPF 30. This is exactly the duration of the 84-day protocol described above, including photos at D0, D28, D56 and D84.
Is it suitable for dark skin?
Its gentleness makes it an interesting option for high phototypes, where the most demonstrative active ingredients often leave the complexion more contrasted than at the start. As with any new active ingredient: test on the elbow crease 48 hours before, and only one new product at a time. No online review replaces this test on your own skin.
How to know if a product really contains it?
Look for Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract in the INCI list, then locate phenoxyethanol, capped at 1.0% by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009: anything listed after it weighs less than 1%. An extract placed just before the preservative is a good sign.
What active ingredients should it be combined with?
Vitamin C in the morning, niacinamide morning or evening, green tea as an antioxidant shield, prickly pear seed oil in the evening for nutrition. Fruit acids are still possible 2 evenings a week. And SPF 30, always.
Extract, powder or liquorice water: which form to choose?
Standardized extract remains the reference form in skincare: it is the only one whose glabridin content can be controlled. Root powder is mainly found in masks and reconstitutable products, and liquorice water brings little. On an INCI list, look for "Root Extract" rather than "Root Water."
Should it be organic?
Organic certification informs you about the cultivation method of the plants, not about the richness of the extract. The ideal combines both: a root from identified organic farming, and a standardized extract whose supplier declares its content. One without the other remains incomplete information.
Is confectioner's liquorice the same plant?
It is the same botanical species, Glycyrrhiza glabra, but neither the same product nor the same use. This sheet exclusively addresses root extract applied to the skin; it does not cover any oral use, on which we do not give advice.
Read more in the Skin Guide
Stabilized Vitamin C: NOPAL LIFE Complete Guide
The morning antioxidant, partner #1 of the root.
Read articleNiacinamide: NOPAL LIFE's Complete Guide
Vitamin B3, the other way to an even complexion.
Read the articlePrickly Pear Seed Oil: NOPAL LIFE's Complete Guide
The treasure of Opuntia, in the evening, after the root extract.
Read the articleSources: Yokota T. et al., Pigment Cell Research, 1998 — reference works on glabridin (in vitro) · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, article 19 and annex V (order of the INCI list, maximum phenoxyethanol content) · European Commission's CosIng database for the name Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract.
Information provided for cosmetic and educational purposes; it does not constitute medical advice.
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