AHAs: fruit acids, benefits and how to use them

Exfoliating helps the skin get rid of dead cells that dull the complexion. Three families share this role: AHAs, which are water-soluble and smooth the surface; BHAs, which are fat-soluble and dedicated to oily skin and pores; and enzymes, accompanied by PHAs, the gentlest option for sensitive skin types. The right approach is not to do more, but to aim precisely: the right formula, at the right frequency, with the right precautions.

A dull complexion often indicates slowed surface renewal: residues accumulate, and light is less effectively reflected. A gentle, well-dosed exfoliant helps to refine skin texture and revive radiance. The key is to choose the active ingredient suited to your skin and understand what distinguishes each family.

What exactly is a facial peel?

Behind this word lies a simple idea: gently detach the superficial layer of dead cells to reveal a clearer, more luminous complexion. Cosmetic care, which can be done at home, relies on gentle agents (AHAs, BHAs, etc.) or fruit enzymes, at low concentrations. This is not to be confused with the deeper procedures performed in a medical office: here, the action remains superficial, progressive, and respectful of skin comfort.

There are two distinct approaches. Mechanical exfoliation physically rubs the surface, like the beads in a classic scrub. Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, dissolves the bonds that hold residues together: this is the principle of gentle peels, using acids or enzymes, whose action is more uniform and better controlled.

AHAs: surface radiance

AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids, are water-soluble molecules: they act on the surface to help detach dead cells, smooth skin texture, and revive luminosity. Many are of natural origin, derived from fruits, sugarcane, or milk, which is why they are known as fruit acids.

The main representatives of this family are:

• Glycolic acid: the smallest molecule in the group, which facilitates its penetration. Glycolic acid is also the most studied AHA, present in many formulas dedicated to skin radiance.
• Lactic acid: gentler, it is part of the natural moisturizing factor and provides valuable hydrating properties.
• Mandelic acid: a larger molecule, with slow diffusion, often better tolerated by reactive skin.
• Citric and tartaric acids: derived from fruits, they adjust pH and support the luminous result.

These active ingredients are particularly suitable for normal to dry skin, dull complexions, and uneven skin texture. Our 10% AHA Peel, with lactic acid and hyaluronic acid, illustrates this balance: gentle renewal coupled with hydration, to preserve skin comfort.

BHAs: oily skin and clogged pores

BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids), whose leader is salicylic acid, are fat-soluble. This affinity for fats allows them to penetrate pores to help dislodge excess sebum and impurities. They are generally reserved for oily, combination, or blemish-prone skin, as well as uneven skin texture marked by blackheads.

Where surface active ingredients primarily work on visible texture, salicylic acid also acts inside the pore: it is a valuable ally for blemish-prone skin and congested areas, especially on the mid-face prone to imperfections.

PHAs and enzymes: gentleness for sensitive skin

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are cousins of AHAs, but their larger molecule penetrates less deeply: they smooth the surface while limiting the risk of irritation. They are the gentlest of all, recommended for sensitive, dry, or redness-prone skin types.

Enzymatic treatments, on the other hand, rely on fruit enzymes – papaya, pineapple, pumpkin – which gently break down the bonds between dead cells, without marked acidity. This is the most respectful approach, particularly valued when the skin tolerates acids poorly.

AHA, BHA, PHA, enzymes: the comparative table

To choose at a glance, here's how the main families are distributed according to their active ingredients, their affinity, and the skin types they prefer.

How to use AHAs without mistakes

Properly using an AHA involves a few simple steps, to be followed in order:

1. Test tolerance: Apply a small amount to an inconspicuous area before the first full application.
2. On clean, dry skin: Apply glycolic acid in the evening, before moisturizing treatments, avoiding the eye contour and lips.
3. Increase frequency gradually: Once a week at first, then two to three times if it remains comfortable.
4. Moisturize afterward: Soothing treatments help maintain comfort after the procedure.
5. Protect in the morning: Daily sun protection is essential, as freshly treated skin is more exposed to UV rays.

It's best to avoid combining an AHA with other powerful ingredients, such as retinol or a highly concentrated vitamin C, to avoid stressing the skin barrier. (Read: How to recognize dull skin?)

How often should you exfoliate?

Exfoliation frequency depends on the product type and individual tolerance. Generally, it should not exceed two to three times per week, and once or twice for sensitive skin types:

• AHAs: Start once a week, then up to two or three times if perfectly tolerated.
• BHAs: Two to three times a week, in the evening, adjusted according to sebum.
• PHAs and enzymes: Two to three times a week, sometimes more if comfortable.

The classic pitfall is applying everything at once to unaccustomed skin, which causes redness, tightness, and increased sensitivity. It's better to advance gradually.

Chemical exfoliation or mechanical scrub?

Chemical formulas (AHAs, BHAs, etc.) and enzymatic ones work by dissolving the bonds between surface residues: their action is generally more uniform than that of grain scrubs. The latter, mechanical ones, can micro-scratch sensitive skin if handled too vigorously. For dull and reactive skin, the gentle chemical or enzymatic approach is often preferable.

Adapt the treatment to your concerns

Each skin has its concerns, and treatments benefit from being tailored to them rather than following a single routine. For a dull complexion, AHAs, starting with glycolic acid, help revive radiance by freeing the surface. For prominent pores, blackheads, or persistent blemishes, salicylic acid is preferred, often by combination to oily skin. Blemish-prone skin will favor targeted action on blemishes, while sensitive skin types will find gentle treatments and enzymatic formulas a delicate option.

The idea is not to multiply products, but to choose the one whose properties address your concerns: radiance, clear texture, appearance of spots, or simple daily comfort. Good exfoliation is judged less by its power than by its accuracy.

Facial peel: what are the dangers, and how to avoid them?

When done correctly, gentle peels remain safe procedures. Discomfort almost always comes from excess: too much acid, too often, or poorly chosen combinations. The main danger is pushing the skin beyond its adaptation capacity: weakened skin barrier, discomfort, redness, or even a rebound effect with increased sensitivity and dryness.

Points of vigilance:

• Introduce only one product at a time and increase frequency gradually.
• Beware of highly concentrated "homemade" recipes or pure formulas: high concentration and low pH increase the risk of irritation.
• Moisturize well after each application to support comfort.
• Apply daily sun protection every morning: freshly treated skin is more exposed to UV rays. (Read: Spots and skin radiance: the guide for luminous skin)
• In case of persistent hyperpigmentation, melasma, or a strong reaction, consult a dermatologist.

Good to know: gentle peels are not limited to the face. Glycolic acid is found in body care products, for elbows and feet, where thicker skin benefits from the exfoliating properties of these active ingredients; some foot peels are even more concentrated. Regardless of the area, from face to feet, the action remains progressive, and the properties and intended uses of each formula are respected.

To identify the ritual best suited to your skin and needs, the Skin Intelligence diagnosis guides you to the most relevant actions.

A measured approach, not a performance

There is a temptation, when taking care of one's face, to want to go fast and strong. Products are multiplied, the pace is forced, convinced that a visible result will reward the effort. The reality is more subtle: the complexion transforms over time, with the seasons and habits, and above all rewards consistency. A simple ritual, regularly maintained, is often better than an ambitious routine abandoned after ten days.

This is the whole spirit of the Nopal Life approach: preferring accuracy over excess, listening to what the skin expresses, adjusting without ever rushing. Today's comfort prepares tomorrow's radiance. Taking the time to observe, spacing out the most intensive treatments, allowing each person to get used to it: this is a more peaceful, and generally more lasting, way to take care of oneself daily.

FAQ

AHA or BHA: which to choose?

AHAs are best suited for normal to dry and dull complexions; BHAs for oily, combination, or blemish-prone skin. Sensitive skin types should opt for enzymes or the gentlest formulas.

How to use an AHA when starting out?

In the evening, on clean, dry skin, once a week initially, then gradually increasing. Moisturize afterward, and apply sun protection the next morning.

What exactly is a facial peel?

It's an exfoliation that detaches the superficial layer of dead skin cells. At home, it relies on gentle active ingredients or low-concentration fruit enzymes, for a more luminous complexion, without the medical procedure of deeper versions.

Does this treatment pose any danger?

At low concentration and well-spaced, no. The danger comes from excess: overly concentrated formulas, too high a frequency, or poorly chosen combinations, which weaken the skin barrier.

Can you exfoliate every day?

No. Daily exfoliation risks weakening the skin barrier. Two to three times a week at most, depending on tolerance, is ample.

Are PHAs really suitable for sensitive skin?

Yes, that's their main advantage: their larger molecule penetrates less deeply, making them the gentlest option.

Does exfoliation make spots disappear?

No. Glycolic acid can improve skin texture and radiance, but established hyperpigmentation requires dermatological advice.

In summary

Properly dosing your exfoliation means choosing the right family for your skin: AHAs, led by glycolic acid, for surface radiance; BHAs for oily or blemish-prone skin; enzymes for gentleness. It also means respecting the frequency, tolerance, and always protecting your skin from the sun. This measured approach is what transforms the act into a true radiance ritual.

To find out which active ingredient suits your skin, take the Skin Intelligence diagnosis: Start my free diagnosis.

Sources: Paula's Choice, CeraVe, NIVEA, Dot & Key. Informational article, not medical advice.

Information provided for cosmetic and educational purposes; it does not constitute medical advice.