Cleansing oil: why and how to use it

Cleansing oil gently dissolves makeup, sebum, sunscreen, and pollution particles, then rinses off as a milky emulsion—without rubbing or drying out the skin. Long reserved for Asian beauty rituals, this oily texture is now considered one of the most gentle ways to remove facial makeup, even for sensitive skin. Here's why this product works so well, how to read its composition, and how to incorporate a cleansing oil into your routine.

The "like dissolves like" principle: why it works

The chemistry behind cleansing oil is based on a simple idea: like dissolves like. Most makeup—foundations, waterproof mascaras, long-lasting lipsticks—as well as sunscreen and the sebum produced by the skin are made of fatty substances. However, water alone, and even many foaming cleansers, struggle to dislodge these lipophilic substances.

A vegetable oil, on the other hand, has a natural affinity for these oily particles: it captures and solubilizes them without the need for rubbing. It's this "like dissolves like" logic that explains its effectiveness on the most stubborn textures, while remaining gentle on the skin's hydrolipidic film.

Emulsification, the step that changes everything

The decisive step occurs during rinsing. Once the product has been massaged onto dry skin, a little warm water is added: the oil then transforms into a fine, milky emulsion. This is the phenomenon of emulsification, where oily molecules disperse in water and become easily rinsable.

Concretely, without this step, the product may leave a slight film. When properly emulsified, the texture carries away makeup and impurities and rinses off completely. A quality cleansing oil, like our Gentle Cleansing Oil, is specifically formulated to achieve this transformation without leaving a greasy residue.

Which vegetable oils to choose?

Not all cleansing oils are created equal: the feel, the sensation upon rinsing, and the affinity with each skin type depend on the vegetable oils used in the formula. Here are the most common ones and the skin types they are best suited for.

A good formula often combines several vegetable oils to balance dissolving power and lightness of touch, without weighing down facial skin.

Reading the composition of a good cleanser

Beyond marketing, a few guidelines help distinguish a carefully crafted product from an ordinary cleanser. The first reflex is to scan the ingredient list: a good cleanser features vegetable-derived oils and a short formula.

The fragrance deserves special attention: for sensitive skin, a fragrance-free or very lightly scented formula reduces the risk of discomfort. An organic label or cosmetic certification remains a useful benchmark, without being an absolute guarantee: it is the overall composition, and its vegetable origin, that determines the quality of a cleansing treatment.

For which skin type?

Contrary to popular belief, cleansing oil is not only suitable for dry skin. When properly emulsified, it adapts to most skin types.

• Dry and sensitive skin: it cleanses without stripping and helps preserve skin comfort.
• Combination to oily skin: according to the "like dissolves like" principle, oil dissolves excess sebum rather than letting it clog pores—provided it is properly emulsified and rinsed.
• Makeup-wearing or sun-exposed skin: it excels at removing long-wear makeup and sunscreens, where micellar water shows its limitations.

If you're unsure about your skin type and the textures that suit you, the Skin Intelligence diagnostic will guide you towards the most appropriate routine for your skin.

Gently removing eye and lip makeup

Eye makeup—waterproof mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadows—and long-lasting lipstick are among the most stubborn textures. This is precisely where cleansing oil makes a difference, by dissolving these fatty substances without rubbing a delicate area.

Apply a little oil to closed eyelids, let it melt for a few seconds, then gently massage the eye contour with your fingertips, without pressing. Emulsify with a little warm water and rinse: mascara and impurities will wash away gently. For lips, proceed in the same way to remove long-lasting pigments. If you wear contact lenses, remove them before eye makeup removal.

Oil or micellar water: which to choose?

Both have their place in a routine, but they don't play the same role. Micellar water is an aqueous format—a practical and quick cleansing lotion, appreciated for emergencies. Cleansing oil offers a more complete cleanse for heavy makeup and sun protection, with a more nourishing feel.

Many also adopt double cleansing: oil as the first step to dissolve fatty substances, followed by a gentle water-based cleanser to perfect. You can also alternate depending on the day, using micellar lotion for light makeup and oil for a more elaborate look. (To read: How to properly remove makeup)

Instructions, step by step

1. On dry skin and hands, dispense a few pumps of oil.
2. Gently massage in circular motions, without pressing, focusing on made-up areas, the lip, and eye contours.
3. Add a little warm water and continue massaging: the texture will become milky, this is the emulsion.
4. Rinse thoroughly with warm water until the oily film completely disappears.
5. Follow up if needed with a gentle cleanser like the Aloe Vera Gentle Cleansing Foam, then pat the skin dry without rubbing.

Avoid excessively hot water and rubbing, which can weaken the skin's barrier. (To read: Face cleansing: the complete guide)

Common mistakes to avoid

• Applying to damp skin: Cleansing oil should be used on dry skin; otherwise, it will just slide off and dissolve makeup less effectively.
• Forgetting to emulsify: Without adding warm water before rinsing, a greasy film may remain.
• Rubbing vigorously: The motion should be light; it's the product that dissolves, not the friction.
• Rinsing with scalding hot water: Water that is too hot does not improve rinsing and can irritate the skin.
• Choosing an overly fragranced formula for reactive skin: Opt for a gentle and discreet composition.

Frequently asked questions

Does cleansing oil cause breakouts?

Formulated to emulsify and rinse off completely, a suitable oil will not leave an occlusive film. The essential step remains emulsification followed by thorough rinsing. If you have any doubts about reactive skin, the Skin Intelligence diagnostic can help you.

Is cleansing oil suitable for oily skin?

Yes, by choosing a light oil (jojoba, sunflower) and emulsifying well: sebum is dissolved and then eliminated during rinsing, without leaving a greasy residue.

Can it be used on the eye contour?

Yes, this is even one of its strengths: it gently removes mascara and eye makeup. Massage gently and rinse with warm water.

What is the difference between a cleansing oil and a milk or lotion?

Milk and lotion are lighter, water-based formats, practical for light makeup. Cleansing oil remains more comprehensive for long-lasting makeup and sunscreens.

Do I really need to add water to rinse?

Yes. It is the emulsification step that allows the oil to disperse in water and rinse off without residue.

How to store your cleansing oil?

Away from light and heat, with the bottle tightly closed. A plant-based formula keeps better in a dry place and away from heat sources.

Cleansing oil morning and evening?

Mainly in the evening, to remove makeup, sebum, and pollution from the day. In the morning, a lighter cleanse is usually sufficient. (To read: Sensitive skin: the adapted routine)

Should you remove makeup even without wearing makeup?

In the evening, the skin accumulates sebum, pollution, and product residues; cleansing remains useful, with oil being a comfortable option.

Key takeaways

Cleansing oil works on the principle of "like dissolves like": it dissolves fatty substances (makeup, sebum, sunscreen), then rinses off as an emulsion. Gentle and thorough, it suits most skin types, provided you choose the right vegetable oils, emulsify it, and rinse it off. To find out if it matches your skin type and to build a tailored beauty ritual, take the Skin Intelligence diagnostic.

Start my free diagnostic

Sources: Aroma-Zone (Why use a cleansing oil; Micellar water or cleansing oil), Typology (How to use a cleansing oil), Pharmashopi (Should cleansing oil be emulsified), Pimpant (Emulsion in cosmetics). Informational article, not medical advice.

Information provided for cosmetic and educational purposes; it does not constitute medical advice.