Combining ceramides and peptides: decoding the INCI list

These two families hide behind names that mean nothing. "Ceramide NP", "palmitoyl tripeptide-1": knowing how to read them is the only way to judge a product that claims them.

Ceramide Codes

Three letters follow the word: N, P, A, E, S, H. They describe the structure of the molecule— the nature of the base and that of the attached fatty acid. "Ceramide NP" and "ceramide AP" are the most common in cosmetics.

None of these letters indicates superior quality. What matters is the presence of several different codes in the same formula, as the skin uses several types of ceramides and not just one.

Peptide Names

They often begin with a fatty acid—palmitoyl, myristoyl—followed by the number of amino acids: tripeptide, tetrapeptide, hexapeptide. The final number is a serial number, not a measure of potency.

These sequences of amino acids are used for their signaling role: they are formulated to interact with skin mechanisms. The level of evidence varies greatly from one peptide to another, and studies most often focus on cellular models.

Where to Find Them in a List

At the bottom, almost always, because they are active at low doses. Their position therefore does not provide information as it does for other ingredients. However, a product that places them after the fragrance contains an anecdotal amount.

Other names that often accompany these formulas: "caprylic capric triglyceride" for texture, "sodium hyaluronate" for hydration, "butyrospermum parkii" for shea butter, "seed oil" for a vegetable oil. This vocabulary covers the essentials of market skincare.

How to Use Them

The peptide serum first, on clean skin. The ceramide cream afterwards. Peptides are water-soluble and penetrate better before a lipid phase, while ceramides work on the surface.

This combination is suitable for all skin types and requires no gradual increase: neither has its own tolerance threshold, unlike acids and retinoids. One application morning and evening is possible without precaution.

Timelines

A few days for the comfort provided by ceramides. Eight to twelve weeks for what peptides can contribute to apparent firmness, and a modest result. These are fundamental ingredients, not correctors.

Our peptides fact sheet details the available families, and the ceramides page explains the barrier structure.

In the Catalog

The collagen and hyaluronic acid plumping serum takes the place of the serum in this sequence, and the repairing night cream with plant ceramides takes the place of the cream.