Combine Retinol and Squalane: The Method

Squalane is what makes it possible to continue using retinol beyond the first month. It doesn't enhance its action; it mitigates its irritation. For an active ingredient that half of people abandon, this benefit is the most important.

Key points

• Technique: the sandwich — squalane, retinol, squalane.
• Retinol quantity: a pea-sized amount for the entire face.
• Skin: perfectly dry when applying retinol.
• Progression: two evenings a week, then more.
• In the morning: essential sun protection.

The sandwich technique, in detail

Apply three to four drops of squalane to clean, dry skin. Wait one minute. Apply retinol. Wait another minute. Finish with a second layer of squalane.

The first layer slows down retinoid penetration; the second limits evaporation and tightness. Efficacy decreases slightly, tolerance increases significantly.

This is a deliberate and good compromise: retinol used for six months in a sandwich method yields more results than pure retinol abandoned after three weeks.

Why squalane instead of a vegetable oil

Its neutrality. Squalane provides neither essential fatty acids, nor antioxidants, nor compounds likely to interact with a demanding active ingredient.

A rich vegetable oil would perform the same buffering work, with its own compounds in addition — and on skin already stressed by a retinoid, the fewer variables, the better.

Progression, week by week

Weeks 1 and 2: retinol two evenings a week, in a sandwich.

Weeks 3 and 4: every other evening if no flaking occurs.

Weeks 5 to 8: four to five evenings a week.

After that: every evening if skin allows.

On evenings without retinol, use squalane alone. This is when the skin recovers, and these evenings are as important as the others.

Mistakes that lead to abandonment

Starting every evening from the first week. Applying to damp skin. Using too much. Adding an exfoliant during the same period. And skipping sun protection.

These five mistakes explain almost all abandonments, and none of them are due to retinol itself.

On perfectly dry skin

This is the most often neglected rule. Retinol applied to damp skin penetrates faster and irritates more.

Dry completely after cleansing, even if it means waiting a few minutes. The first layer of squalane can also serve as a guide: if it has penetrated, the skin is ready.

How much retinol

A pea-sized amount for the entire face, no more. Excess won't speed anything up and will increase redness.

Avoid the eye contour and sides of the nose during the first few weeks: these are the areas that react the most.

According to your skin type

Dry skin: the full sandwich, with a cream after the second layer of squalane.

Oily skin: the sandwich also works, as squalane is not heavy.

Reactive skin: squalane alone for one month before introducing retinol, then two evenings a week.

Combination skin: retinol over the entire face, squalane generously.

Sun protection, no discussion

Retinol increases sensitivity to UV rays. Daily sun protection is part of the protocol, including on non-application days.

Without it, what is built on one side is damaged on the other — and for such a slow-acting ingredient, this is particularly costly.

An important caveat

These products are cosmetics and act on the appearance of the skin without treating any condition. Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding: consult a healthcare professional before any use in this context.

The sandwich method

A layer of squalane before, one after: this is the classic way to buffer retinol on skin that tolerates it poorly. The same method applies to a bakuchiol serum, with the advantage of an already oily base that often makes buffering superfluous.